#Black diamond atc design how to#

To reset the cam, release the handle and start lowering again. Anti-panic system: if you pull the handle to far, the cam will re-engage and lock up, similar to the CAMP Matik.The GriGri + adds 5 main features on top of the GriGri 2 base: Multi-pitch climbers should take particular note that this device does not include the guide mode loop like the original MegaJul. The MegaJul Sport is intended for crag climbers that want brake assist capabilities while belaying and rappelling. By using all steel parts climbers can will have a setup what will not wear out. Having a steel carabiner is ideal because the MegaJul Sport is also made of steel and can cause nicks on aluminum carabiners. To ensure the best performance, the MegaJul Sport can be partnered with the Bruce Steel carabiner. Along with the MegaJul, this Sport version is one of very few devices made that has a brake assist method on a double rope rappel. The MegaJul Sport also has a beefier frame and more sculpted rope bearing surfaces. It also has a larger thumb loop making it easier to get your thumb into the loop while belaying as well as providing more leverage for smoother lowers/rappels.ĭuring rappel, you have the choice to use the device as a regular tuber or you can flip the device around and have brake-assist on rappel. The MegaJul Sport is what happens when you take the smooth performance of the Jul² and bring it to a double-tube device like the MegaJul. Price: $39.99 alone or $54.99 packaged with a Gridlock carabiner Edelrid MegaJul Sport Yes, it looks similar and it performs similarly, and Black Diamond isn’t claiming they invented the concept the ATC-Pilot is just their take on it. Just as almost every climbing company sells multiple styles of tube devices, we suspect the semi-auto tuber is going to become a very prevalent style of device in the next few years. The ATC-Pilot has been getting a lot of flack for looking and operating similar to the Salewa Ergo, Edelrid Jul² and Mammut Smart. The ATC-Pilot would still lock, but it won’t release if the carabiner can’t rotate in the device. This is because some small offset D shaped carabiners may have a basket geometry that prevents the carabiner from rotating properly in the device. It’s essentially constructed from two pieces (4 if you count the pins): the rope bearing surface is an injection molded stainless steel part to reduce wear, and the main body is a lighter weight but tough Grilamid® which is 20% glass filled nylon.Īll carabiner/rope combo’s will give different braking characteristics, but an HMS/Pear style carabiner is recommended.

When your climber falls (top-roper or lead climber), the device will seemingly catch the majority of the weight and hold the climber until your hand rotates the device and releases the rope.

The ATC-Pilot is a single rope semi-auto tuber with enhanced braking. If you can’t see the video at the top of this page featuring these 4 belay devices, you can watch it directly on YouTube or Vimeo. Read on to see what the Black Diamond ATC-Pilot, Edelrid MegaJul Sport, Petzl GriGri + and Wild Country Revo all have to offer.Ī word of warning to the avid multi-pitch climbers out there: this year’s selection is stacked with brake assist devices designed for gym and single-pitch climbers. Price: $39.99 alone or $54.There are 4 new belay devices coming to the US market in 2017. And the black part is Grilamid® which is 20% filled glass nylon– lightweight while still being very durable. The rope bearing surface is 17-4 metal injection molded stainless steel so it won’t wear out anytime soon. Materials: This device is kept simple on purpose: there are two main parts plus two pins. With the device released you can quickly pay out rope for slack without short-roping the lead climber.Īs the climber passes the bolt or pro, you simply bring the slack back in like any other tube style device. With your fingers still around the rope you can use your thumb to lift up and release the device. To lead belayįollow the brake rope up with your hand until you reach the device. Technically, you can also lift the device away from the carabiner to fully release the rope, but this method takes much more effort and offers much less finesse. While your hand is on the brake rope, all you have to do is slowly rotate the device, gradually releasing the rope and lowering your climber. When braking, the rope gets pinched in a V-groove by the carabiner and that’s what increases friction and holds the rope.

#Black diamond atc design how to#

Black Diamond is expecting a minimal learning curve and says it will only take about a pitch to figure out how to enable a smooth belaying process.